Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Mount Kinabalu 1 July 2012 – 4 July 2012

























































































































































San Sao and I departed from LCCT on 1 July 2012 taking the 9.30am flight.  Both Sean and Ye followed San Ge to the airport .  Haha, the 2 boys were still so sleepy but it’s sure feel good to have the 2 boys seeing me off at the entrance of the airport.
We were very excited as we have been preparing for the climb.  San Sao has been more diligent as she has started her training for past 6 months the moment she knew about the climb.  As for me, the intensive training started the last 3 weeks before the climb.  Not too bad considering that I had to undergo a minor operation a month before the climb.  Suan was worse off than us as her training was doing housework as she did not have a maid during that period.  Suan met us shortly at LCCT and soon our plane took us to KK airport Terminal 2.  KK airport was surprisingly warm but it did not dampen our excitement.  We met the rest of our group members who are Suan’s current and ex-colleagues.  Later, along the day, we found that they are easy to get along with.
It took us 2 hours to reach Kinabalu Park from the airport.  We dropped by Giant to replenish our climb supplies.   We spent the first night at Kinabalu Park.  The place was beautiful and the air was great.   Haha, I even found that the dining atmosphere at Balsam restaurant to be romantic as it was next to the majestic Mount Kinabalu.  Everything looked so majestic and great.   After our buffet dinner, we went back to catch our early sleep as we tried to catch the earlier climb which was at 8.30am.
Before the climb
We had our early buffet breakfast at Balsam Restaurant.  The day began at the park HQ where all climbers must register for the trek.  We were all milling around the park offices, before that we bought some last minute item like head gears which were priced quite reasonable.  Climbers were issued with tags which was individually numbered with day of departure, must be carried o n the trail for the duration of the climb.
We rented the hiking stick from the guides as there no sticks were available.  After all formalities were completed, we opted to take a bus ride to the official start, The Timpohon Gate.
We started around 9am as we tried to leave earlier as weather in the afternoon at the top mountain can turn wet and miserable from about 3pm onwards. 
The Climb
The earlier stages were quite easy .  There was a waterfall on the left of the track of the 1st km. From a group of 7 , we broke up along the way. The appealing aspects of the trail were the regular appearance of rest huts every km.  I had to use the toilet at 1st stop as I had quite a heavy breakfast.  By the time I reached Mempening helter at KM3, my stomach started to rumble. We took a break and had our lunch at Layang-Layang Shelter which was at KM4.  We were earlier given our lunch pack which consisted of 2 apples, 2 eggs, some sandwiches and a bottle of mineral water.  Fortunately I brought a bottle of 100 plus, it surely tasted more appetizing .  I didn’t manage to finish the egg and sandwiches as I ate the prunes I bought along.    Later at Layang-Layang, Suan rejoined me with Zaharah.  After the break, we moved on.  The climb after Layang-Layang seemed more taxing and required some scrambling up some very uneven section of tracks.  It’s not too difficult but became quite tiring after some time.  At this point, there was slight drizzle and we quickly put on our raincoats.  Fortunately it was not a heavy downpour and I dreaded to think of walking in heavy rain.  Along the way we bumped into potter carrying supplies and luggages up to Laban Rata.  We only carried the essential supplies as we paid the potters to carry our luggages for us.  I truly pity the older potters who seemed to be struggling with the heavy luggages.  My heart goes to them but they would prefer for us to let them carry the luggage for them to earn an income.  Sigh, how tough life can be for some .  But on a positive note, they all looked healthy and some are more agile and active than younger people. 
Climbers could refill their drinking water at each shelter but I did not as I could only finish my one bottle of 100plus.  Probably the 2 apples helped.  A reminder to myself : to buy another bottle of 100 plus and some bananas and no no to energy bar.
Lessons learnt during the climb was try to avoid taking big steps as it would take a toll on the leg muscles.  I applied some sunscreen but fortunately the rainforest was quite dense , giving us plenty of protection. However, to play safe I still apply the cream and put on my biggest hat.
Altitude started to have some effects after Layang-Layang, so we started walking a little slower.   However I started to go ahead of the rest again very soon after that.  Kwee Yap commented probably it’s because of the way I’m trained.   My only spare training time was in the early morning after I dropped Tong to kindy.  I would rush to the small mountain and sped up and down the mountain.  Everything was done in a speedy manner as I had to be on time to work.  At this stage, we started seeing some of the climbers descending from the previous day’s expedition.
Most of them were in good spirits and gave us encouragement to move on.    However many looked weary, well not surprising considering they have been awaken since 1.30am for the summit climb.  There was another trail known as Mersilau trails but we did not attempt that as we heard that trail is more difficult than the more popular Timpohon track but less steep overall.
Past 5km mark, the track finally clears the thicker forest growth of the mountain and emerges on to a rocky plateau for the first time.  It was really awe- inspiring feeling to be more than 2500 m up, even though the view was obscured by heavy mist.
  At this point, I began to feel mild headache and  the flu I had since Saturday did not help much either.
As the track elevation approaches 3000m , the alpine terrain and floral growth was nor markedly different to the rainforest below.  Tresses were bare of any leaves, instead carrying large clumps of what looks to be moss.  It was quite a sight for me who was not familiar with alpine environment.  During the climb, I did not meet any animals except for a mouse like animal.
I was so ecstatic to reach KM 5 and looking forward to reaching Laban rata restaurant as the weather was cold and my fatigue began to set in.   I reached Laban Rata around 2.30pm and quickly ordered a bowl of hot noodle soup while waiting for the rest.  The noodle was quite expensive but it was expected as all supplies had to be carried up by porters.  I made a mental note to finish all food as it was all hand carry by the porters.   A foreign hiker walked past and asked what I ordered so she could order same item.  Haha, I guess, I must be famished by then and the noodle never looked so appetizing. 
I also manage to write a postcard to send home.  There was a postal box provided which was very convenient.  Suan and Zaharah reached half an hour later and also ordered the same soup.  San Sao and Francis reached shortly before 4pm and we waited for the buffet dinner to be served before checking into our hostel.  The dining room at Laban Rata is quite pleasant to unwind from the walk.
 We stayed at Gunting Lagadan which was about 200m from Laban Rata.  As the weather was too cold, I believe it should be below 5 deg cel then.  I skipped bathing for the day as it was not a heated hosted.  I must salute San Sao as she took the cold icy shower.  I couldn’t sleep well that night probably as the accommodation is dormitory style and its non heated.

Day 2
 We had to wake up at 1.30am to prepare for the summit hike.  As we did not intend to go down to Laban Rata for buffer supper, we made do with instant noodle with hot milo.  Hah, instant noodle never tasted better then.
We started our climb around 2.45am.  I found that day 2 climb to be much tougher than Day 1 climb due to combination of fatigue, high attitude and nausea.   There were unrelenting steep and staircases were really tiresome.  After that, we emerged into open rock face, where the magic of the climb began.
The white rope that accompanied all climbers to Low’s Peak began here with a very steep climb up some treacherous rock faces.  I needed to literally pull myself up parts of the rock face here, which were an exhilarating experience,  when we climbed, it was a clear night and the clouds stretched as far as the eye could see.  It was full moon and I could see some big stars and I may say this ranked as one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever seen.   Along the way, I was simply pulling my weary legs up, scampering and climbing my way up the sheer sides of Mount Kinabalu.  Fortunately Suan was with me and motivating me to move on.  We were lucky in certain parts as there was a local guide who helped us through.
If I remember correctly, we reached Sayat-Sayat checkpoints were our tags were checked. The gradient can be incredibly steep in parts, there were parts where I had to grap the robe which was bolted into the rock face.  Both of us were literally pushing each other to move on.  I was so tempted to talk short break after few paces.  My throat felt so dried and stomach felt so empty.  I began to realize that I had quite a high metabolism, as my stomach got hungry very fast.
Around 5am, we could see Low’s Peak.  Suan was so motivated and kept going up.  My feeling was different.  Where we were less than 50-m frm the Peak, I felt like giving up.  I asked Suan to move on.  I rested on the rocks as I experienced nausea and headache.  My fear of height came to haunt me again.  I was fighting a losing battle and I told myself to take it easy.  Whatever is meant to be, let it be,haha, I would still be satisfied with my achievement.  More than half an hour later, I saw San Sao.  She was as excited as Suan upon seeing the peak.  I asked her to move on.  I couldn’t remember how long I sat on the rocks when I heard a guide enquiring and prodding me to move on.  He was very kind to offer his help.  By then, I guessed I have sat long enough and thought well, why not.  There was another helpful guy helping me up.   Not long later I reached the top to join San Sao and Suan for the photo session on the Top. As it was getting quite crowded, we stared making our way down.  After all the hardship, now while I am writing this blog, it began to dawn on me that I should spend more time on the top to enjoy the scene.  Heck, I did not and wasted no time to leave the place haha. Around 7am, the sun up and it was a clear blue sky.  The view was majestic and I took a few photos.  I personally found the descent more scary as the day was bright and I could see what I climbed earlier.  My heart took a beating whenever I had to negotiate dangerous sections.  At that point, I  started cursing myself for taking such risk.
I followed a guide down and reached the hostel around 8.20am.  The descent took less than 2 hours which was considered quite fast as I followed the guide closely.  The rest joined me around 10am.  As my stomach was grumbling by then, I went down for breakfast first.  We finished our breakfast around 11am and started our descent.   We started the descent slowly but later we sped up as we realized it took us too long to complete each KM and we might miss our lunch.  After Layang-Layang, Suan and I sped off.  We experience different degree of sore legs, knees and ankles.  Suan was like a captain, urging me to move and we hardly took any break. We literally limped our way the last 200m to Timpohon Gate as our legs threatened to give out.    I have a new respect for Suan as she hardly stops for a break despite having zero training for the climb.  I guess she has a stronger mind than many of us.
San Sao joined us less than an hour later and Zaharah and Francis joined an hour later.  We boarded a bus back to park HQ.  We could not make it for the buffet lunch but we were still served fried rice.  After collecting our certs and returning the hiking stick, we took bus back to Tune Hotel , KK.
That night we had seafood dinner which comprises of crabs, prawns, chicken, fish, 2 vege which were all quite big portions.  It came up to around Rm27 per person which was reasonable as the serving was big and seafoods were fresh.
We had a great sleep and I woke up refreshed and more positive.  Even the legs pained were more bearable.  However, soon I experience sore throat as I did not drink enough water during the climb.  We managed to shop for some clothes at I Borneo shopping mall which was situated next to Tune Hotel.  Accommodation at Tune Hotel was clean and comfortable.  We had Ayam penyet for lunch and took a cab to the airport.  Did some final shopping at airport where we bought some seafood.  No one return empty handed.  This is surely one of the more fulfilling travel experiences we ever had.  I’m surely glad to know that San Sao was very happy and contented with this travel.  She could still walk and not limped like most of us after the climb.  I’m also truly grateful to Kwee Yap for taking care of the kids during my absence , giving me a peaceful mind to focus on the climb as well as his moral and financial support.  This trip is like a reunion with my close secondary school mate and we managed to go through hardship and happy time together just like old days.  I also get to know more about my sister in law.  I find her attitude and fitness level would easily put many younger people to shame.
Lastly, I have a new respect for this mighty mountain and those who attempt to scale it.  “KOW TOW”.  I’m truly humbled by this experience and hope to emerge from this a wiser and stronger person.  Hopefully this has somehow cured my fear for height? Haha, only time can tell……wow and I surely had a great time writing this.

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