Day 1 - Preparation. Day before the climb
12.30pm
We met at KK airport on Saturday noon and was taken to One Borneo for lunch and to stock up on some food and drinks. Most of us purchased 100 plus and I bought an apple and dried mango.
The journey to Kinabalu Park took us 2 hours . The first 45mins or 90km was good. Nice straight roads and good views. Then the turning off at a small town called Tamparuli got a little tougher.
6.30pm
As we turned into the park, out in front of us stood the most awe inspiring landscape i've seen in Malaysia . Mount Kinabalu towering above. All else was forgotten. Its sheer size, its stark appearance - One has to be there in person just to be humbled by nature's creation. Its like travelling down memory lane for me.
At the Sutera Sanctuary Lodge reception and office about 1,563 meters (5,128 feet) above sea level, everyone welcomed the cool mountain breeze and fresh air. Well, at 1,563m already covered from the long, winding drive - with simple mental math it worked out that we only had another 2/3 of the way to go. Didn't seem all that tough.
Sir Hugh Low and other adventurers had a much tougher time with the task of travelling upriver, trek through thick Borneon jungle which has now given way to agriculture and housing, and scaling up the most treacherous part of the mountain that we no longer have to. Ok, with that mentally instilled - the balance was starting to tip over to 'definitely gonna make it'
Once all was satisfactorily in order, we climbed into a 7 seater van and were whisked off to Kundasang. Kundasang is the about 6km away from the park. There are rows and rows of vegetable/fruit stalls and the area is bustling with activity. Land rovers laden with baskets of freshly collected produce from the farms nearby ; local people, the kadazandusuns trading with the sellers and middlemen, sitting chatting with friends/family at the tea stall.
From here, a left turn took us on a 11km drive past the Kundasang War Memorial Garden, lots of hill terraces planted with tomatoes, cauliflowers, cabbages and a variety of fruits too, and the 18-hole Mount Kinabalu Golf Course before ending up at the Mesilau Nature Resort. The road gets so steep towards the last 20m, the van could go no more with the weight behind. So we poured out of the van.
For those thinking of taking the mesilau route, staying overnight at this resort makes perfect sense. A stroll at Kundasang, a game of golf, or a walk on the nature trail . Mesilau is also a great place for bird watching for those wanting a bit of peace and quiet.
As we reached pretty late, I didn’t manage to look around. But I could bet that that a trip here with family would be just as great. One don’t really have to climb to enjoy the great mountain view.
Dinner was at the resort's restaurant . A beautiful building with outdoor and indoor dining, a lounge area, a small but informative gallery upstairs, conference rooms and a souvenir shop.
Sitting out at the patio at night is an entomologist's dream. The dim lights attract all forms of winged insects and other wondrous creatures as does the early morning when ornithologists will have the most fulfilling breakfast with a piece of crisp toast in one hand and binoculars in the other.
If you've left something out from your packing list, try this shop. They have rain ponchos, balaclavas, gloves, snacks, batteries, torchlight and even ski or trekking poles. To go with an evening by the fireplace back at the lodge, this shop also sells a small selection of wines.
But not everyone who visits the park climbs Mount Kinabalu . Many visitors actually stay at the Park for the trails, the cool weather..and the scenery. But book for accommodation in advance though.
As we need to have an early start the next day, best to have as much rest as possible. The next day will be a loooong day. Those too excited for sleep, there's TV.
DAY 2 - THE CLIMB . Mesilau Trail
I was advised to try Mesilau trail , although 2km longer, would take climbers through a beautiful trek of montane forest, past streams and on ridges. I took the opportunity to change my route. It is slightly more expensive though - for the guide fees and perhaps the transport to the mesilau nature resort where the gates are)
7.30am
After breakfast , we met with our guide, Azlee. The guide have a rotation in which the park officers have arranged for them so that the 80 some guides would have equal chances of taking clients up the mountain. The guides brought out a weighing scale and all baggage that was to be carried by the guide were to be weighed. It costs RM10 per kg and that is only up to the resthouse. If you wish to have the guide carry gear all the way up to low's peak, then it's another RM10 per kg from resthouse to the peak.
Guides are allowed to carry up to 25kgs of gear per guide and no more. We arranged for the guide's services. The rest of my baggage was tagged and placed in the left luggage at Sutera Sanctuary's office. It costs RM10 per luggage.
8.45am - mesilau (tambang gate)
We started off a little late that morning, after registering ourselves at the mesilau counter. Last chance for a more civilised washroom and to pick up a walking stick at RM5 per piece is at the gates. As San Sao coulnt’t make it, she lends me her walking stick.
According to Azlee, a native from the area - Mesilau is a far less trodden path than Timpohon. Not many know about this trail which was opened to climbers only in 1998 but was initially used mainly by scientists and researchers until the last 4yrs or so when trekkers started coming this way.
The park and mountain were first gazetted a national park because of its fauna and flora diversity. There's still much more to discover and unlike many areas lost to economic progress in Sabah, at least there's 754 sq km (291 sq miles) left for the world to keep, hopefully indefinitely. This protected area is probably has one of the richest flora in the world and includes vegetation type ranging from the rich lowland dipterocarp zone making way for montane oak. rhododendron, and conifer forests a little higher up and to the alpine meadow plants and stunted bushes in the summit. A botanical survey estimated about 5,000 to 6,000 species (and this excludes mosses and liverworts) are found on the mountain!
The trail started off straight into a climb and soon the pace was set.
The guide always stays with the slowest in the group in case help is needed. As we were really not in a rush to get to the camp in record time. It was the perfect opportunity for Kai Seng and Kai Jun to take some pics and video shots of the forest trail and its flora. It can be extremely difficult to spot wildlife here, especially when the only thoughts are to get enough oxygen to the brain without hyperventilating and passing out.
Passing the kipuyut bridge and up a steep climb.. the vegetation slowly started to change from low montane into the mossy forest of gnarled, stunted, trees and vegetation adapted to wind chill and weather. The kipuyut bridge was named after the large trees in its surroundings which used to shelter the local people from heavy downpours.
12.30pm - Rest stop at Simpang Layang Layang
I was beginning to understand why there were that many rest huts or pondok. Our day up the mountain was a blessed day. The sun was shining and the cool May weather helped. Trekking in the highlands is definitely not as energy zapping as down in the humid stillness of the lowland jungles. Those in our group who attempted the mountain the August before had a tough climb. The rains were pelting down and the winds were howling. They had tree hugging experiences all the way up.
So, there are seasons to climb. Best time would be from April till July, but some years August and September could be good too. Whatever time of year though, there's most often than not - rain. The mountain is a wet, wet place and can be treacherous if climbers aren't prepared. The rest huts are a refuge and can be a lifesaver. Tucked into the woodern eaves above are stretchers, in case of casualties along the way.
If anyone is injured along the way, the guide can transport him or her down - piggyback style. As long as he/she is not over 50kg. it costs RM100 per km. if the injured weighs more than 50kg, then a stretcher will be used. That, according to Azlee, would take 7men. However, if it's a critical situation, a helicopter will be sent to the Panar Rata.
Most of the time I was trekking with Kai Seng and Kai Jun. We didn’t realise that Suan and Francis are not too far behind until when we reached Laban Rata. There were 6 of us from the group on this trail and all setting different paces. The endless climb took me to a ridge that connected to the main Kinabalu massif. This narrow strip gives a clear view of either side into the valleys. The mist wafted in like moving clouds. From the sweat, the breeze and being enveloped in a blanket of mist - I felt the cold creeping into my bones.
2.45pm - Mesilau Trail meets Summit Trail
From there onwards, the climb begins. Some 500m from here our trail meets up with the Summit Trail (the 5.5km on the mesilau trail)and joins the 4km point of Timpohon Trail at Layang Layang. This steep trail is known as the Golden Trail and is supposedly the stretch up this trail. It was endless and beautiful. The strong colouration as I found out later is due to the ultrabasic rocks that contain high concentrations of toxic elements such as nickel or chromium. The vegetation changes abruptly. Only plants able to survive in high levels of toxicity such as the LEPTOSPERMUM or TEA-TREE (Leptospermum recurvum), locally called 'sayat-sayat', a shrubby tree with small greyish leaves and starry White flowers; and the Southern Pine (Dacrydium gibbsiae), one of the southern hemisphere conifers, take over the scenery.
At the 5km mark we arrived at Pondok Villosa where nearby is the nepenthes garden. This is where climbers can spot large pitcher plants (the nepenthes villosa up to 25cm or 10" long) in bushes. Although orchids are common here, of which the mountain and park possess a staggering 746 species of the total estimation of 1,400sp that are found in Borneo . The main flowering season is from October to January, but I managed to capture a beautiful spray at Pondok Villosa. At Pondok Villosa,I had some time to spend watching a couple of (I believe) Borneon Mountain Ground Squirrel frolicking about.
The Golden Trail was tough. Its steep steps were uneven and seemed to extend forever. sympathetic climbers coming down from Panar Laban gave encouraging words, like 'round the corner', 'almost there' etc.
4.30pm - Laban Rata Resthouse and Panar Rata
Not much longer, we arrived at Waras Hut. Cant imagine that the 7kms could have taken us lesser than 8 hours to finish. But the entrance to Laban Rata Resthouse was most inviting. The digital thermometer on the wall showed 8°C.Some climbing mates already showered, changed to warm clothing, waiting to be fed. We then made a beeline for the buffet dinner which started at 5pm. The spread was quite quite good. Probably after a long streanous climb, everyone was famished and tucked in happily to the food..
After a 'hearty meal' and a chat with the others, we went to change at our room. There are men and ladies washrooms upstairs.
The sun was setting and we had a great view from the balcony at the canteen. The dramatic backdrop of the granite rockface combined with the strong orange of setting sun is a definite postcard shot. As for those wanting to send a postcard to loved ones with a mount kinabalu postmark, there is a postbox at the canteen counter. For others who'd prefer to call home, there are phone booths at the entrance to the resthouse.
The name Panar Laban is derived from a corruption of the Dusun word meaning 'Place of Sacrifice'. Early explorers stopped to sacrifice a white cockerel and 7 eggs to appease the mountain spirits. Today, the sacrifice is still carried out once a year
A tiny convenience shop sells panadol among other medications and some first aid kid items, chocolates, rubber shoes, gloves, some toiletries, Maggi noodle packs, postcards, rain ponchos etc.
The prices here are much inflated and one will understand why, when trekking up the trail. Porters are hired to transport all necessities for the 'camp'. Men and women alike carry as much as 25kg of goods in their rattan backpack up and down the mountain. With ease too!
Besides Laban Rata, there are several other huts such as Panar Laban Hut, Waras Hut and Gunting Lagadan Hut. Although they are not heated, warm bedding is provided. There are basic cooking facilities and common bathrooms.
We went upstairs to my dorm room and lights out was at 8.00pm. hardly got any sleep. The lightning lit up the skies intermittent..thunder in the distance and rain pelting the windows. Oh no, we'll be up on the open space in this rain in just 5hours.what a downer!. The was no heater in our room and fortunately it was not too cold that night. A restless night..
Please Note:
All lodging on Mount Kinabalu are very difficult to book due to the limited quota of climbers allowed to overnight on Mount Kinabalu.
DAY 3 - To Low's Peak
2.00am - preparations for the final ascent
Got up to the noise outside. Climbers were preparing for the last leg of the climb. The gates open at 2.30am and we didn't want to be late for the sunrise at the top. The night was chilly and after a quick breakfast of toast and coffee for me, we were off.
We were quite on time . There was a short queue ahead of us. We waited for some time. The night skies were looking good, not much cloud cover. Our climb up the wooden steps were excruciatingly slow.
3.30am - the rockface climb
After the bottleneck at the wooden stairs.. climbers moved faster and about 300m+ later, arrived for the test.. climbing the rockface. A strong rope aided us along and up onto ledges. This mind you, was done in darkness. This is why the headlamp is a better choice. Single filed, and hugging closer to the rockface for fear of the unknown in pitch darkness we made over the rockface and boulder, ending up at the Sayat Sayat checkpoint. All climbers have mount kinabalu pass tags. The ranger at this checkpoint has to register everyone attempting to reach Low's Peak and this is when the pass is required, so don't lose or leave it behind at Laban Rata. This is also where you can stop for a drink of water. There's a tap just at the gates.
It was taking twice the effort to breathe. Every 20 steps or so, a rest was required. There was another 1.5km to go and we had to make it to the peak by 6.00am. As we climbed higher, I turned around several times to gauge how high we had climbed based on the lights at Laban Rata.there was a row of lights snaking its way towards us. There were more climbers below, making haste to catch the sunrise. And I thought we were the last group to climb??
6.00am - Low's Peak
All of us made it to the peak this round. Though we can’t see much , as it was misty when sun rose. After 2½hrs of darkness, the early cool rays of the morning sun are a welcome for all at the peak. The chill was there mind you. I was freezing and was pleased that I kept my gloves with me.
The view from Low's Peak and its surroundings is spectacular. In the distance we could see Kota Kinabalu. The clouds were below us - thick and as white as cotton. It was perfect. I've completed my task. Only having realised that I had achieved my task, my energy level dropped to a heady low and desperately needed a bar of chocolate to replace the energy spent on the adrenalin pump.
Almost anybody can make it to the top of the mountain. It takes willpower, a lot of pacing, some stamina, prior preparation to maintain a fitness level; and good weather helps a great deal. Those who are a little unsure about their health will be advised to go for a medical check-up.
The magnificent landscape at the plateau and summit makes one wonder about its creation. Mount Kinabalu is a young mountain. 9million years ago, the area was just a piece of flat land. Whilst strange creatures walked the surface, hundreds of metres below at the earth's crust, a layer of granite was solidifying. Due to the earth's violent movements, the granite massif pushed up to the surface. As the mud and sandstone layers above the granite massif eroded with the winds and rains, the peak eventually became exposed. During the Ice Age, 10,000 to 100,000yrs ago, ice capped the summit. As earth began to warm up, the glaciers at the peak melted, great avalanches occurred, causing striations, grooves and a range of geological tattooing on the granite. Climbers can see such evidences on the rock surfaces
10.30am - the descent : Timpohon Trail
After a quick snack of mee and a steaming hot soup, it was time to make our way down. The morning weather was uplifting. i slapped on more sunblock, put on my sunnies and braved the arduous trail downhill.
Instead of back trekking down the mesilau trail, we were to take the Timpohon Trail down. This trail is the most climbed trail on Mount Kinabalu . It's easier to get to from the Kinabalu Park . There are shuttles to/fro the Timpohon Gates, only 4km from the park. Timpohon doesn't really give the climber a chance to recover. The climb is a continuous trek. Unlike the mesilau trail, there's no valley or ridge or plateau. It's all the way up. This really was an endurance test. I was so glad to have taken the 'alternative route'.
After 4hours of trekking, we finally stepped onto the platform at the Timpohon Gates. Made it! My two days on the mountain. The 8hours on mesilau and then another 7 hours up and down the peak and finally 4hours from Laban Rata to timpohon gates. It was worth it! The prize of making it to the top . a perfect June morning with spectacular sunrise display, beautiful view of the world below and being on top of the world!! Weather was with us, as the guide at the foothill told us it was pouring the day behind at the foothill but we were so lucky that there was no rain at mountain top.
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